You moved in three weeks ago. The previous owner left a handful of keys, none labelled, and the bolt on the side door rattles in its housing.
For a main exit door the hardware choice has a safety side as well as a security side. A door people leave a home through should open from the inside without a key, so a single-cylinder deadbolt with an inside thumb-turn is the standard fit rather than a bolt keyed on both faces. Where glass sits close to the lock, the answer is a captive thumb-turn, laminated glass, or a tested security-film system with its specified frame attachment, not a key on the inside. The locksmith explains the trade-offs, fits the lock that keeps a stranger out and the family able to leave, and shows everyone the thumb-turn.
Sound familiar?Parkview Hill
Deadbolt Installation · Parkview Hill
Scene 1
Deadbolts are built around two dimensions. The cross bore is the large hole through the face of the door, 54 mm on most residential hardware, though some older or imported locks used 38 mm. The backset is the distance from the door edge to the centre of that hole, 60 mm or 70 mm on nearly every door in this part of the world. If a deadbolt is being replaced, both are measured so the new lock lands in the existing holes without a shim or a gap. On a new installation they are chosen to match the knob below, so the two locks line up and any future keypad or smart deadbolt drops straight in.
Scene 2
With the height agreed, the paper template is folded over the door edge and the two centres are marked: the cross bore on the face and the edge bore on the stile. A boring jig clamps over the door so the hole saw cannot wander, and the cross bore is cut from both faces to leave clean veneer or skin on each side. The edge bore is drilled with a 25 mm bit through the stile until it meets the larger hole. The locksmith then traces the bolt faceplate on the edge and chisels a shallow mortise so the plate sits flush, keeping the cut inside the lines so the edge stays sound.
Scene 3
You should know what is on your door in plain terms, so the visit closes with a short account: the model and grade of deadbolt fitted, its finish, the backset and bore it sits in, whether the cylinder was keyed alike or set to a new key, how many keys were cut, and what was done on the frame side. For a rental, this note is useful for the landlord or building manager, who under tenancy rules is entitled to know what lock is on the unit and to hold a key. For an owner it is one line in the house file that makes the next locksmith visit, whenever it comes, a simpler conversation.
What shapes the quoteLeaside Lock Experts
FeesSame any hour
A replacement into existing holes is generally the shorter visit, and boring a fresh door with a new strike takes longer, roughly an hour or two per door including the frame work and testing. Steel doors, keying alike, frame repairs after a forced entry and fitting a jamb reinforcer each add time. The locksmith can give a realistic estimate once the door and frame have been looked at.
Know which doors you want bolted, what they are made of, and whether each already has a deadbolt or only a knob. A photo of the door face and edge helps. Have any existing keys to hand, decide whether you want everything on one key, and mention glass near the lock, a storm door in the same opening, or a rental agreement. If you have already bought hardware, keep the box and template together.
Usually, yes. If the new lock shares a keyway with your existing cylinders, the locksmith repins it on the bench so your current key operates it, and nothing changes on anyone's ring. If the keyways differ, the other doors can be brought onto the new key instead. Say which key you want to keep before the hardware is chosen, because keyway is part of picking the lock.
TorontoOntario
Deadbolt Installation · Toronto, Flemingdon Park, Leaside, Thorncliffe, Woodbine Heights
Every square is one home in a hundred.
On-site assessment preferred · (289) 806-8979, open 24/7
